Holy Land Mountaintop Pilgrimage --Israel and Jordan, January, 2014 -- Days 4 and 5

Day 4, January 22, 2014 … once again a delicious Kosher breakfast with milk products.  Kosher cooking requires that milk and meat must be completely separated and so the meals will be either with milk products or with meat products.  Breakfast has milk to drink or for cereal, yogurt, and various cheeses, along with eggs and a number of salads.  Our dinners have been meat … therefore no milk or milk products are served, not even for coffee.

We stayed in the area north of the Sea of Galilee today … touring the ruins of three cities that we know Jesus condemned:  Matthew 11:20-23  “Woe to you Chorazin (Korazim).  Woe to you Bethsaida. For if the mighty works done in you had been done in Tyre and Sidon, they would have repented long ago in sack cloth and ashes.  And you, Capernaum … you shall be brought down to Hades …”  Jeff did an excellent teaching in Bethsaida  on repentance.  Those cities did not repent and no longer exist.

We visited the excavated ruins of these three cities.  In archaeological digs they determine the level to stop digging by drilling a hole straight down and determining where the bed rock is.  It is expected that no civilization lived before that bedrock layer.  Also, in Israel digging is only done during the months of July and August because that is when it is driest and they are able to sift the dirt to find artifacts. 

Bet Saida was the home of Philip, Andrew and Peter.  It was a fishing village and a port city on the Sea of Galilee at the time of Jesus.  At some point afterwards, the city was destroyed by an earthquake and the Sea of Galilee shifted several miles to the south.  The entire area is basically the Jordan River along the bottom of the valley with steep hills on either side. From 1948 to 1967 the hill, along with all the property west of the Jordan River known as the Golan Heights, was occupied by the Syrian army.  They built bunkers along the hill to fire upon the Israeli farmers and settlements on the east side of the river.  That went on for 19 years, while the Israeli government provided the farmers with tanks to use as tractors in the fields for protection.  Children could not play outside … schools and play areas for the Israeli children were all in underground bunkers.  On a side note … we heard machine guns, helicopters and other shooting while in this area this morning … the Israeli military were having drills today! We’re safe!

Jeff connected the sin of Adam and Eve found in the first book of the Bible … 1) the lust of the flesh in wanting the apple, which they thought was good; 2) the lust of the eyes by wanting what we see; and 3) the pride of life, a disordered self-trust by wanting to rely on our own wisdom.  In Matthew 6, however, Jesus combats those sins by telling us to 1) combat the lust of our flesh (excess food, drink, any compulsive behavior) by fasting, by disciplining our bodies; 2) combat the lust of our eyes (wanting everything we see … more clothes, more shoes, etc … our materialism) by diverting ourselves by giving to others; and 3) combat the pride of life (doing it my way) by prayer, humility and reliance and trust in God.  Certainly something to reflect on … and reflect on them often … and a challenge for us to repent, turn to God and live as He wants us to life as his disciples.

Ruins of the synagogue in Korazim

The ruins of Korazim a short distance away has one of the best restored synagogues where Jesus taught. Uncovered were many lava rocks with ornate carved decorations.  It also had some fully restored homes.  Tools were found for winnowing the wheat and for grinding wheat and barley into flour, as this was basically a farming community in the first century era.

Our next stop was Tell Hazor, one of the largest Tel’s in Israel.  There they found 20 levels of civilizations dating from 1100 BCE to 700 

CE, also one of the oldest digs.  One restored area is that of the 8^th century BC era, destroyed when the Northern Tribes of Israel were defeated abound 722 BCE.  Another area is the water system built by King Ahab around 850 BCE, built as a water supply for when the city was under siege.  Water is a critical problem in this area.  Another layer found at this site is a Canaanite village which was defeated by Joshua around 1200 BCE.  In this same area, the gates to the city that were unearthed are those built by King Solomon in about the 9^th century BC.  Close to this area is Mt. Kakhal, the highest point in Israel … still had some snow on it!  This area has always been an important area because it was the major trade route between Asia and Africa.

Next we drove east to the Golan Heights, which is 10 miles wide and 50 miles long.  This area was held by Syria by agreement with Israel in 1948; however Syria never did honor the cease-fire agreement.  Syria built military bunkers all along the border, not only at Bet Saida but all along that area to fire upon Israel on the other side of the valley, plus they buried millions of mines along that countryside.  While under Syrian control, no citizens ever lived in that area ... only military personnel.  About 10 years after Israel captured that area in 1967 did Israelis begin to populate it.  There are now 33 cities in that area, all built since 1977.  Our guide explained that Israel has always been and still is willing to give back the Golan Heights under certain conditions … mainly that the attacks would not start up again and that there would be protection for Israel on the water source, as a third of Israel’s water comes from this region.  To date, Syria has either refused or chosen not to meet to negotiate.  Many of the areas that were “mined” have not been cleared yet, and we could see yellow warning signs along fenced areas all along the road we drove on … everyone in Israel knows not to cross the fence with a yellow warning sign!

We went to Katsrin for lunch and then to the Golan Winery for tasting, touring and buying!  They produce only Kosher wine there, meaning they follow the law of not working on the vines themselves every seven years, plus there are inspections and certain workers required to be orthodox Jews. A fun and relaxing time.

Peter's fish dinner

Back to Capernum where Jeff gave another teaching in the ancient synagogue there on the marks of discipleship.  Jesus used this area as a

Ruins of the synagogue in Capernum

base for his ministry and performed many miracles there.  The church is built over the house of Peter, and we had Mass there.  This evening we went to another restaurant in the Ein Gev kibbutz for Peter’s fish … a fish similar to tilapia cooked with its head on .. very tasty!  Of course the sides included soup, several salads, hummus and flat bread with fresh dates for dessert.  I can tell I’m eating way too much … though it is healthy and delicious!  A powerful day today … actually being where so many important events in the Bible took place from 4700 years ago to today.  Certainly adds new meaning to reading the Bible! 

Day 5, January 23, 2014 …  after an early breakfast, packing up and leaving Ein Gev, we backtracked a bit to Mount Tabor, also called the Mount of Transfiguration, again driving through the mountains and across lush valleys with acres and acres and acres of netting covering banana plantations and many orchards … oranges, dates, mangos, lemons, grapefruit, olives, pomegranate, etc.  We had to ascend to the summit using taxies because the buses cannot drive the tight, hair-pinned mountain road.  We had mass at the beautiful Basilica of the Transfiguration.  Jeff then provided a background of some of the other Biblical events that took place here.  Both Jeff and the Mass itself focused on having hope in your heart for heaven. 

Basilica of the Transfiguration, Mount Tabor

After this we drove south and the east to Highway 90, which runs south parallel to the Jordan River.  We crossed the checkpoint into the West Bank.   Politically that area belonged to Jordan until Israel took it over in 1967.  In negotiating a cease-fire with Jordan, Jordan said they really did not want that area and gave it up.  Right now the area is governed by a complex set of rules where the Palestinians control most of the West Bank area, but there is another portion that is controlled by Palestinians but the Israeli military protects it and there is another small area that is under total Israeli control.  That entire area was settled by both Palestinians and Jews prior to 1948 who lived in harmony; however, since Israel because a nation, there has been friction, and you can tell the difference between a Jewish town and an Arab town because the Jewish towns have fences around them to protect themselves.  Also, Israel established a border patrol all along the Jordan River, which is the border between Israel and Jordan.  All along the west side of the River, Israel built a row of three parallel fences, each one having a different purpose, with mines in between and a road outside of the fence in which the military, bunked in several areas along that area, patrol. Israel is very diligent in preventing terrorists from coming in.

Farming practices

Border security

Traveling south into the Jordan River Valley, it was surprising how fast the area turned from the lush valleys of the north to the arid hills and valleys to the south.  Just crossing the border, life changed as many Palestinians still choose to tend sheep and goats as they did for thousands of years.  But both Arabs and Jews have also “conquered the desert” by irrigating the land, becoming a major agricultural area

of fruits, vegetables and flowers … most, I’d say, covered with plastic or netting … it is quite a site!  This technology was also shared with Jordan, so we saw in Jordan on the east side of the river the same plastic covered fields of produce!  Israel and Jordan do have economic trade between them.

Nomads in Jordan

It took several hours to go through the Israeli checkpoint, cross the Allenby Bridge over the Jordan River and then the Jordanian Customers to be able to continue on into Jordan.  We also had to change buses and guides to Jordanian buses and guides while we are here. Also, while we are in Jordan, we have a security guard traveling with us … gives one a heightened sense of uncertainty!!  Omar, our new guide, is an Arab Catholic, moved to Jordan in 1967 and provided a wealth of information about the history of Jordan, especially in relation to Biblical history and the part this area played in the Jewish history.  As we drove straight east to Mt. Nebo, it was baron, baron hills and valleys, climbing from 1300 feet below sea level up to 2100 feet above sea level.   It was surprising to see the Bedouins actually living in this area … these are Arabs,  mostly Muslims, who choose to live in the deserts just as their ancestors did … living in goat-haired shacks, herding goats … I just can’t imagine living that way.  There are also Bedouins in the deserts of Israel and in Africa.

The climb to Mt. Nebo was steep and windy … ate lunch at a restaurant just outside the mountain site.  The area itself is where Moses looked straight east and saw Jericho and the rest of the Promised Land, but the Lord told him he would not enter because of his sin.  In about the 4^th century during Byzantine period a church was built on top of the mountain, which was destroyed by the earthquake of 747.  This area is now owned by the Vatican and is being restored … and much of the beautiful mosaic flooring has been unearthed and will be a part of the restoration.  It is hoped the work will be completed by time the Pope visits in May.  Jeff did a teaching reminding us of the history of Moses and the significance of this site … also pointing out that Moses did indeed enter the promised land with Jesus at the transfiguration which we visited this morning!

Ancient mosaic map of the Holy Land, St. George's Greek Orthodox Church,;Madaba, Jordan

Leaving Mt. Nebo, we traveled east (I think) to the town of Madaba, which has one of the highest concentrations of Christians in Jordan. There we visited St. George Greek Orthodox Church.  About 100 years ago this church discovered a beautiful mosaic flooring of the detailed map of ancient Israel … and preserved it as a part of the flooring of the present church. It is estimated the mosaic was done in the 300s and that church was destroyed around the 700s.  It is incredible.  The church also contained dozens of mosaic icons along the walls depicting the life of Jesus, some of the saints and other important events in Christianity.  So detailed, such talent … very beautiful!

Finally we drove down to the Dead Sea to our “home” for the next 2 nights ... Kempinski-Ichtar Hotel … wow … I feel like royalty.  The rooms are jaw-dropping … ultra modern.  The bathroom has both a toilet and a bidet, a tub and a ceramic shower with bench, sleek sink, a huge closet with sliding doors, a separate little cubby as a makeup room (I think), bed with sleek cabinetry on either side, sofa/lounge chair/TV area with coffee table + beyond the sliding glass doors is an open-air seating/lounge area.  Free Internet and free amenities such as beer/coffee/water bottles, pop, etc.!  The dinner was delicious … ate outdoors overlooking the Dead Sea and parts of the City.  It’s heavenly … I could get used to living like this!!!