Traveling the Emerald Isle -- Days 16 & 17, September 3 & 4, 2022

Valley of the Kings, Republic of Ireland  – Days 16 & 17, Saturday & Sunday, September 3 & 4, 2022

It rained all day today … the first rainy day of the entire trip.  We had such perfect weather every other day, which, we were often told, is very unusual.  So we’re getting a dose of what the locals often experience.  We leave Northern Ireland behind and head for the Valley of the Kings. This rolling river valley of Boyne is considered the cradle of Irish history.

The Battle of Boyne in 1690 between the Protestant King William of Orange and the disposed Catholic King James II of England was the most significant in Irish history.  King James had come to Ireland to garner more troops to regain the throne.  Over 61,000 troops took part in the battle. The guide at the visitors’ center, housed in a mansion built on the battlefield 50 years after the battle, explained the battle in detail pointing out it ended with the victory of King William and the exile of King James to France.  This marked the beginning of over 300 years of bitter religious division. Five years after the battle the oppressive Penal Laws were introduced, prohibiting Catholics from owning land or entering any higher profession. Irish culture, music and education were also banned in the hopes of eradicating Catholicism.   Such suppression was the normal until 1922 when the Republic of Ireland gained its independence.

Probably the most disappointing part of the entire trip was our visit to Newgrange … though that disappointment was mostly our own fault.  We should have made advance reservations to tour the tomb, but they wouldn’t even allow us to walk up to it to explore it on our own.  The Visitor’s Center did have an excellent presentation of the tomb and another tomb that has recently been unearthed at Knowth.  Newgrange is a single mound built around 5,000 to 3200 B.C. (different sources have different dates).  It appears to have been a sacred place having something to do with the Sun God.  It was apparently constructed precisely to allow sunlight to shine down a 60-foot passageway for 17 minutes on December 21 each year, the Winter Solstice.  One theory is that this may have been the moment when souls of the dead were transported to the afterlife by the mysterious ray of light. It seems quite amazing to me that 5,000 years ago something so magnificent and scientifically accurate was constructed!

Aerial view of Newgrange

It’s still raining, but we continued on with our last stop, the historic Hill of Tara, an important center of religious and political power before Christianity.  It was the home of the Druids, priest rulers of ancient Ireland who practiced Celtic paganism.  It then became the seat of Ireland’s High Kings who ruled until the 12^th century when the Normans took over. About 142 kings were crowned at this location over the years. It is said that at this site Saint Patrick directly challenged the king’s authority and won him over by explaining the Trinity using the three leaves of the clover. From then on Saint Patrick was allowed to preach Catholicism in Ireland, and the country now had a new national symbol! We watched a short video in the Visitors’ Center which was located in an abandoned church, and then we explored the grounds a bit.  The site itself is basically high rolling hills with the Mound of Hostages ... a Bronze Age passage grave from about 2,500 B.C. … some ancient sacred stones, a war memorial, a statue of Saint Patrick and beautiful surrounding views.

Walking the Hills of Tara

Thought to be a burial tomb at the Hills of Tara

Statue of Saint Patrick

We’re wet, cold and tired … but it’s onward to our hotel near the Dublin airport where we have dinner and drinks and prepare to fly back tomorrow.   Sunday’s travel day was long but uneventful, arriving home about 8:30 p.m.  However, with the six-hour time difference, our bodies were telling us it was 2:30 a.m.!  Very early to bed was in order. It is good to be home, and we again count the many Blessings bestowed on us.

Some more reflections about Ireland … What we call something can have an entirely different word by the Irish (and English as well).  For example:

• The queue – a line (as a line in the grocery store)
• Ramp - Speed Bumps (Frank had to “Learn” a different language while driving!!)
• Motorway or carriageway – Highway/Freeway
• Garda – Police
• Gaol - Jail
• Craic (pronounced “crack”) – Fun
• Chemist – Pharmacist
• Starters - Appetizers
• Champ – Mashed potatoes and onions
• Chips – French Fries
• Dubs – People from Dublin
• Half-eight – Means 8:30 or half-past eight.  Quarter-eight would be 8:15 or quarter after
• Jacket potato – Baked potato
• Lift – Elevator
• Petro – Gas
• Roundabout – Traffic circle – very prevalent on the Island!
• Banger – Sausage
• Beer Mat – Coaster
• Cos – Romaine lettuce
• Crisps – Potato chips
• Diversion – Detour
• First Floor – is the second floor of a building. What we call first floor is their ground floor. 

In restaurants or pubs, there was no tipping anywhere. And the bill was rarely brought to the table.  Whenever you were ready to leave, go up to the bar and tell the bartender your table number (if it’s a larger place) or just tell them what you ordered. We never ever felt that we needed to eat and run.

Oh, what a marvelous trip with Frank and Suzanne!!!

 

 

 

 

Traveling the Emerald Isle -- Day 15, Friday, September 2, 2022

Northern Ireland – Day 15, Friday, September 2, 2022

We continue our trek through Northern Ireland by driving up to the ruins of the Dunluce Castle perched on the edge of a rocky ledge. During the Middle Ages the castle resisted several sieges, but on a stormy night in 1639 the kitchen portion fell into the sea along with its servants.   The castle has been deteriorating ever since with little to see of it today, but it certainly is a beautiful location.

The ruins of Dunluce Castle

Even though it’s still morning, a tour of the Old Bushmills Distillery, seems in order! This is the world’s oldest distillery with a license granted to it to distill “Aqua Vitae” in 1608. The almost an hour tour was very interesting as our guide explained the various steps it takes to produce excellent whiskey, after which we had an opportunity to sample their finest at the 1608 bar. While I’m not a big fan of whiskey, Frank thought there were a couple good ones!

Continuing the road along the Atlantic coast, our next stop is at the Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge. For 200 years fishermen hung a narrow, 90-foot-high bridge across a 65-foot-wide chasm between the mainland and a tiny island.  Today the bridge still provides access to the salmon nets set during the summer to catch the fish that turn the corner of the coast.  It was another beautiful mile walk along the cliff’s ridge to get to the bridge. Only Frank actually walked across it because the rest of us were too cheap to pay the Pounds to cross!  But again, we delight in the picturesque mountains and jagged cliffs of the coast.

Heading south, we pass through Belfast on our way to Down Patrick where we met Peter’s mom for dinner (See post on Day 3, Sunday, August 21). After 38 years of exchanging Christmas Cards, it was good to finally meet this delightful lady. It was also awesome to learn more about life in Northern Ireland, of the struggles of Catholics in the north, especially during the “Troubles” and of their family.  It was a most enjoyable evening.  After which we go down to the lovely Burrendale Hotel and Country Club in New Castle, our stay for the night.  It can’t be said enough … how very Blessed we are!

Bob, Frank, Eileen, Marcie in Down Patrick

The typical pub in the Emerald Isle

Traveling the Emerald Isle -- Day 14, Thursday, September 1, 2022

The Fanad Peninsula, Republic of Ireland; Northern Ireland – Day 14, Thursday, September 1, 2022

Today we are spending this morning driving around the Fanad Peninsula, one of the Republic of Ireland’s northern most peninsulas. This trek is still along the Wild Atlantic Way, so we see more rugged coastlines. As we approach Fanad Head, the very tip of the peninsula, there’s a light house built in 1818 in response to the sinking of the ship Saldana where all lives were lost. The ship was identified from a silver collar around the ship’s parrot which was the only survivor. Also, during WWI, Lough Swilly (the bay on the south side of the peninsula) became the main Atlantic base for the allied fleet, with Fanad Point guarding its entrance.

This area, however, is the Donegal “Gaeltacht”, the name given to the Irish speaking areas of Ireland. Irish was the main language of the island until the 16^th century when the British ruled.  They outlawed the Irish language, requiring only English to be spoken.  Today about 75 percent of the people in the Gaeltacht speak Irish. Irish and its culture are taught in the schools and signs are all written in the Irish language. This area from here back toward Slieve League is the largest Gaeltacht area of the Republic.

Farming Salmon in the bay

One of hundreds of ancient ruins

Fanad Lighthouse

Driving down the eastern side of the peninsula along the Lough Swilly, the views are beautiful, though it is a bit foggy today; and near Ballymastocker we see circular cages in the bay which are used to farm salmon.  Once we circle back to Letterkenny, we head east to Derry (or Londonderry, whichever your preference, I gather) and cross the border into Northern Ireland. Even though it is a different nation (actually a part of the United Kingdom) with its money being in pounds, there was no border stop. It was like crossing state lines in the US.  The cute little town of Portrush was our destination for lunch at a delightful bistro along the coast called 55 North Restaurant, Bistro & Café.

 From there we drove directly to Giant’s Causeway along the Antrim Coast.

As if we haven’t seen enough spectacular panoramic coastal views, the Giant’s Causeway ranks as one of the top. We walked along the top of the cliff soaking in the churning waters below, the sheer cliffs weaving around the water’s edge … Jaw dropping views.  Then we went down 162 steps to continue on a lower path to even more breathtaking views and different rock formations.  What is so unique about these cliffs is they are a “geological phenomenon consisting of about 40,000 polygonal basalt columns forming the causeway that juts out into the sea. Scientists believe the columns were created some 60 million years ago by volcanic activity.” (pg 238, IRELAND BACK ROADS, Penquin Random House, 2018) What was really fun, however, was the large pile of columns that have broken off over the millennia that people would climb all over. We spent a good half hour being kids on the rocks, looking for that next column to step on to climb either up or down or around. 

Our hike took us to the second to last point ... after that the trail closed for safety reasons

Yes, switchback down the steps and then along the path below all the way to the point

Towering "Pipes of the Organ" at Giant's Causewqy

See the trail on which we walk to get back to the car

"The Stepping Stone" columns to climb over!

Bob, Frank and Suzanne ... having fun. Can you find them?

Tired and hungry, we drive to Coleraine to our hotel for the evening.  Unfortunately, it appears that everything in Coleraine shuts down on Thursday nights.  We walked into what we thought was a bar and restaurant, only to find out it was only a bar.  But there the locals were overly helpful in trying to give suggestions … and directions … to places to eat.  It was quite amusing and delightful at the same time!  The bartender, being the clearer head in the place, provided the name and written directions to a nice restaurant slightly outside of town where we did enjoy another Irish/English dinner and drinks. Yet another awesome day on the Emerald Isle!  

Traveling the Emerald Isle - Day 13, Wednesday, August 31, 2022

 

The Wild Atlantic Way in County Donegal, Ireland  – Day 13, Wednesday, August 31, 2022

Today we travel the Wild Atlantic Way, darting in and out along narrow roads and inlets, skirting the rugged coves, beaches and cliffs in western County Donegal. This is a harsh country, battered by the Atlantic winds and storms, which also brings with it its own beauty and allure.   The country’s largest fishing port was at Killybegs where the harbour was crowded with boats, ships and freighters.

Harbour at Killybegs

Our next hike is along the soaring polychrome cliffs at Slieve League. At over 2,000 feet high, the dramatic cliffs are among the highest in Europe, plunging over 600 meters into the churning sea.  The trail begins with about 250 feet practically straight up … requiring sheer might to get to the top, but the rest of the mile and a half trail, while still hilly, was not as bad.  The scenery, however, was spectacular with magnificent views of the Atlantic Ocean, Donegal Bay and the Sligo Mountains. As difficult as I thought it was, it was also the absolute best walk ever with its very dramatic rock formations, cliffs and, yes, grazing sheep at every turn.  It’s something one must experience, as words and even photos cannot adequately describe it!  Out on a far ledge we see a stone watch tower, one of 80 built around the entire island within view of each other, built in the early 1800s in anticipation of an invasion by Napoleon.

It's a lot easier going down hill!!!

We enjoyed more views as we weaved our way up the jagged coast for quite a ways, but we also see what looks like commercial peat bog areas where many piles of peat are still drying in the late summer sun.  It’s all very interesting and intriguing.  After maneuvering; the switchbacks through the spectacular Glengesh Pass, we turn east to toward Glenveagh National Park and the looming Mount Errigal, County Donegal’s highest mountain. The cone shaped top dominates the horizon for miles around, looking taller than it is from the surrounding bog land.   

Mount Errigal

Our next stop is our B&B in Letterkenny. After settling in, we take a stroll up to St. Eunan’s Cathedral. Built in 1890, it was remodeled in 1985 with care to preserve the style and materials of the original altar by incorporating an Irish carving of Leonardo’s The Last Supper. Along with a lovely Marian side altar, there’s also a side room of a life-sized Nativity as well as a small relic of St. Faustina. 

We had a delicious dinner at the Warehouse Bar and Grill of shank of lamb. Interestingly, given the fact that sheep are found in abundance everywhere on the island, lamb is rarely found on the menu.  During the entire trip we did eat a lot of tasty dark breads, fish and chips and seafood soup/ chowder. Other scrumptious dishes include phyllo- or panko-coated baked brie with berry sauce, breaded mushrooms, steak sandwiches and the typical Irish breakfast of eggs, sausage, baked ham (their version of bacon), a baked tomato, yogurt, cereals and beverages.  As you can see, the cultural food and drinks have been a wonderful part of this journey! 

Traveling the Emerald Isle -- Day 12, Tuesday, August 30, 2022

Galway, Shrine of Our Lady of Knock and the Carrowkeel Megalithic Cemetery, Ireland  – Day 12, Tuesday, August 30, 2022

We’re up for another day of adventure starting with some time spent in the City of Galway. It is a maritime city located between Galway Bay and Lough Corrib.  Walking into the functioning medieval church of the Catholic Cathedral of Our Lady Assumed into Heaven and St. Nicholas took my breath away.  High curved arches, a central dome, beautiful stained-glass windows, life-like Stations of the Cross and a beautiful Marian side alter all contributed to the grandeur yet holiness of the church. Legend has it that Christopher Columbus prayed here in 1477 before his voyage to the New World.

Catholic Cathedral of Our Lady Assumed into Heaven
and St. Nicholas
Galway, County Galway, Ireland

From here we stroll along the lovely River Corrib to the Spanish Arch, a remnant of the city wall built in 1584 to protect the river and the city.  It is also the place where the Spanish would unload their ships filled with goods, mostly wine!  Further along, we enjoy the pedestrian shopping area, enjoy the unique names of some of the businesses (I especially related to “Nana’s Tea”!), the street musicians which seem to be prevalent in cities throughout the country, until we reached the open grassy area of Eyre Square. This area was outside the city when donated by the mayor in 1710 and is now where people linger, sip their coffee, read or check their phone and let the children play in the playground. 

Spanish Arch, Galway

Now heading north, we make a stop at the Shrine of Our Lady of Knock, Queen of Ireland. It is a Catholic pilgrimage site and national shrine in the village of Knock, County Mayo.  On the evening of August 21, 1879, 15 parishioners ranging in age from five to seventy-five, witnessed an apparition of Our Lady wearing a large, brilliant crown and clothed in white garments. On her right was Saint Joseph, with Saint John the Evangelist on her left. To the left of St. John, a cross and a lamb stood on an altar. No words were spoken.  Witnesses stood praying for two hours in the heavy rain, though the ground around the apparition remained dry for as long as the vision lasted. The Vatican has approved a new Feast Day of Our Lady of Knock on August 17 of every year.  It was truly a holy place … beautiful, serene, prayerful.

Chapel at the Shrine of Our Lady of Knock

In the Cathedral at the Shrine of Our Lady of Knock

Heading to the Carrowkeel Megalithic Cemetery, we wondered if we were on the right path. The road narrows to a cow path (okay, sheep path!).  Then there’s the gate across the road reading “Leave the gate as found. Please keep gate closed. No dogs allowed.” Do we continue further? There’s no sign of other humans anywhere (to be fair … two hikers did come down the trail as we were going up).  We open the gate, drive through, then close the gate and continue. At one point Frank decided he probably shouldn’t go on, parked the car, and we hiked UP the trail on the side of the mountain.  While the vistas were stunning, the walk up was rather difficult.  Frank, Suzanne and Bob forged ahead … I was a bit slower and enjoyed snapping pictures and talking to the many grazing sheep scattered throughout the road and mountainside.  At one point, where no plain path was discernible though it definitely went higher among the boulders, I couldn’t tell where the rest were and didn’t want to take the wrong path up, so I turned around.  However, the others did make the climb and found the ancient burial tombs to be amazing.  There were at least 14 tombs constructed, some of which they could squeeze into. These tombs were built of stone, of course, in the 4^th millennium BC; and, remarkably, no modern reconstruction has been done or needed.  The monuments were the final resting places of people within the Neolithic community and would have functioned as territorial markers for an expanding colonization of the region.  Frank and Suzanne have said this was the highlight of the entire trip!

We make one more stop at the lovely Glencar Lough in County Leitrim where a captivating waterfall tumbles down, eventually making its way to the lake. The Central Hotel in Donegal, County Donegal, is our home for the night.  Reminiscing about our day over dinner and drinks, we all agree the gift of being able to experience this beautiful country is truly a Blessing.