Saturday, August 27, 2022

Traveling the Emerald Isle -- Day 5, August 23, 2022

 

Glendalough and Kilkenny , Ireland – Day 5, Tuesday, August 23, 2022

St. Kevin's Cross
Glendalough
Today we begin our tour of the rest of the Republic of Ireland.  Suzanne and I got everything packed and went for coffee and a croissant while the guys went to get the rented car. I’m told that the coffee here is far superior to what we have back home, possibly because it is freshly pressed coffee.  We’re now on the road, Frank driving a stick on the left side of the road … he successfully navigated us out of the City and on the road south to the Wicklow Mountains.  The motorway is four lanes, but when turning toward the mountains, the back roads are just barely two lanes wide with no shoulders and either brick or stone walls or vegetation hedges bracketing both sides of the narrow road.  It is only through the few areas of lower hedges that we glimpse the beautiful terrain. 

We stop at Glendalough, meaning Valley of the Two Lakes, which was a sixth century monastery founded by St. Kevin. It was destroyed by the English in

1398, and finally abandoned in 1539 during England’s Dissolution of the Monasteries. There still remain some ruins of the church, an out building and many grave sites.  An old Celtic cross dedicated to St Kevin stands guard over the site. The tower is also standing, which would have been used to house the church bells, storage, but was primarily a place for pilgrims, and a last resort place for refuge during Viking raids. We then hiked to the lower, then upper lake … and up some more to a lovely waterfall.

 

A delicious lunch was had at the little hotel in town before heading out to Kilkenny, through fields and mountains, narrow roads and the motorway, stone fenced and/or hedged fields, many with sheep grazing

or just laying in the sunshine.  The city boasts of its Castle, which was the seat of the Dukes of Ormonde for 500 years and has been restored to its Victorian splendor.  It was interesting to view the stateliness and opulence of the various rooms, but the restored Long Gallery was amazing.  It has a hammer beam roof painted with motifs from the Book of Kells and numerous priceless paintings hang from the walls.  My favorite was a beautiful picture of the Madonna and Child painted in the 1500s.   After another day of 12,000 steps, dinner and evening drinks, the pillow awaits.  It has been another grateful day meandering in Ireland.






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