Chartres, France -- Day 10 -- July 27, 2016

Day 10 -- Loire Valley, France – Wednesday, July 27, 2016 … The terrain changed today as we headed north from the Loire Valley itself toward Paris. It is much flatter with large fields of grain.  However, our mission was one stop first …

Cathedrale Notre-Dame de Chartes

Cathedrale Notre-Dame de Chartres … Wow!  There’s just so much to tell about this masterpiece of architecture. This 12^th century Cathedral is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site because it is one of the greatest achievements in the history of architecture with its ornate Gothic style and its world renowned original 13^th century stained-glass windows.  It has also been a pilgrimage destination since the early Middle Ages, and this year we had the opportunity to go through the Holy Door as announced by Pope Francis in this Year of Mercy.  You can see the two towers  high above the city as you approach from the farm fields … it looks like the towers are coming out of those fields!  An interesting fact is that the towers are two difference sizes and of two different architectural styles.  One is a Romanesque pyramid tower dating from the 12^th century; the other is the taller 16^th century Gothic-spire above the older original tower.   And the detailed Gothic designs, statues and scenes on the outside are so ornate you simply marvel at these 750-year-old carvings! The archways over the main royal door reflect The Christ of the Book of Revelation with almost 60 carvings embedded in the building. And that’s just one of the three main entrances!!

Holy Door

The North Rose
Window

Once again, the church is designed as a cross with three very elaborate rose

windows – the West Rose and main entrance reflects the Last Judgement; the South  Rose Window reflects the Second Coming of the Lord; and the North Rose Window reflects the Kings of Juda and the Prophets.   You are once again struck by the massive structure of pillars and beams all the way down the center of the church to the end of the nave. At the end of the nave is a large white statue reflecting Mary’s Assumption with five elongated stained-glass windows high above it.  Very beautiful.

A portion of the screen around
the Nave

It’s difficult to describe the screen around the sides of the nave.  The scenes are facing the aisles to the various side chapels, are set about 8-10 feet above the floor and consist of 40 niches containing statues that tell the lives of the Virgin and Christ.  One could spend hours just contemplating the story. It is elaborate; it is detailed; it is flamboyant; it is simply amazing. It was also reassuring to see the restoration taking place, as there was a marked difference between the bright niches and pillars that had already been restored and those that have not. 

Blue Virgin Window

 There are numerous side chapels.  My favorites were that of that of Mary, Queen of Heaven, and Mary’s Chapel where the tunic of the Blessed Virgin Mary is displayed.  This relic survived the 1194 fire, which is the reason for construction of this Gothic cathedral.  And of course, there are the 167 stunning stained-glass windows.  Besides the beautiful rose windows, there is also the famous 12^th century Blue Virgin Window. Every window tells a story … The Passion, The Life of Our Lord, of Mary Magdalene, of the Good Samaritan, of Saints Anthony, Martin, Nicholas, Paul, Andrew and many others; of the Zodiac, of the Apostles … just to name a few! 

 In our first visit we totally missed the large labyrinth in the center of the nave which is a symbol of the path leading us from the earth towards God.  That’s because there were chairs set up along both sides of the aisle.  After leaving the church and perusing the gift shops, we found the labyrinth on everything, and we knew we missed something important. So we went back in, and sure enough … there it is embedded in the stone floor!  This is a Holy place where I was drawn to be reflective and to be at peace.  I’m humbled to have been privileged to explore the famous Chartres Cathedral, and my prayer is that a pilgrimage here by many others will bring them closer to God.

The Assumption Statue

South entrance to the Cathedral

Next stop, our hotel close to the airport in Paris.  We have some time to regroup and prepare for an early departure for home tomorrow.  Once again we have been Blessed with a wonderful adventure, this time meandering through Normandy, Brittany and the Loire Valley in France!

Loire Valley, France -- Day 9 -- July 26, 2016

Day 9 -- Loire Valley, France – Tuesday, July 26, 2016 … It’s almost a five-hour drive from where we were staying in Brittany to the Loire Valley. The terrain is that of rolling hills, patchwork fields, large and small French villages and towns – each with the iconic tall church steeple in the center of town.  The Loire Valley is no different.

Cathedral in Tours

Side Alter in Cathedral in Tours

St. Joan of Arc
Chapel

Cathedrale Saint-Gatien de Tours … The first stop in the Loire Valley is the Cathedral in Tours.  A number of other churches were built on the site, each, in turn were damaged by fire. The church was completed in 1547 designed in the typical cross layout and was deemed a historic monument in 1862.  A new patron saint of the cathedral, Saint Gatien, was chosen in the 14^th Century. The beautiful detailed stained glass windows of the choir are from the 13^th century, plus there are remarkable rose windows in the transept from that century as well.  There are several tombs including the children of Charles VIII, Anna de Bretagne and Archibald Douglas and his son, Sir James Douglas. One of the many chapels is dedicated to the local hero, Joan of Arc.  Joan met here in Tours with Charles VII during her campaign to rid France of the English.  The outside is just as impressive with its two Gothic towers and windows, its exquisite detail as well as the flying buttresses.  If you are a student of architecture, you can see Romanesque buttresses, Gothic ornamentation and Renaissance tops of the towers all in this one building. They have been restoring this Cathedral since the 1990s … a beautiful sight to behold!

Chateau of Ambroise

Chateau of Ambroise … Next stop, the Chateau of Ambroise with its massive structure perched high along the Loire River that can be seen from several miles away. It was seized by Charles VII in the mid-1400s after its owner, Louise d’Ambroise, was thought to be involved in a plot against the monarchy. He was pardoned later, but the Chateau remained in government hands. Joan of Arc did pass through the town on her way to defeat the English at Orleans.  The view from the Chateau is breathtaking. The glory days of the Chateau were during the 15^th and 16^th centuries as a favorite place for the French kings to house their wives and children while they sought the company of their mistresses elsewhere. It is also said that Leonardo da Vinci stayed in town at the request of Francois I; and because of their friendship, da Vinci is buried on the grounds of the Chateau.

The Chateau

One of the many tapestries in
the Chateau of Ambroise

One of the many
fireplaces

The history of the Chateau involves three famous ladies, each of whom has a different room named after them … Joan of Arc, Annie of Brittany and Agnes Sorel (said to be Charles VII’s favorite mistress).  Because of its thick walls, the safety of the royal family was ensured. The chateau became a palace, a symbol of the king’s power, where numerous political events took place.  By the beginning of the 17^th century, the Chateau was abandoned, then turned into a prison for a period of time; but restoration began again in 1848.  While it was sparsely furnished and we could view only about a fifth of the rooms used by royalty, it is still fascinating to see how royalty lived in those days.  The grounds are quite beautiful, and sitting under the trees eating an ice cream cone was very relaxing!

View from the Chateau of Ambroise

Walkway to the
Chateau De Chenoncean

Chateau De Chenoncean

Chateau De Chenonceau … A mere 20 miles away is another Chateau, one of the most famous because it is built over the River Cher with five large curved arches. It also has quite the history, known as the Ladies’ Chateau, because six women were very influential in its design and use. To get to the Chateau, we walked up a very wide, very long tree-lined roadway that also had gardens, a maze, and a 16^th-century farm on either side. It was built in the 16^th century.  The Guards’ Room, the Chapel, the Green Study, the Library, the Gallery (which is basically built above the river itself and was the last addition to the Chateau), the kitchens, drawing room, stairway and halls, many bedrooms and the exhibition room … so much, so many details, so much history … too much to even begin describing.  But all reflect life in days past … opulence.  Many of the rooms had massive tapestries on the walls; many other rooms had very large masterpieces on the walls; and most of the fireplaces were huge and very ornate.

The Gallery

One of the kitchens

Chateau de Chenoncean

During World War I, the Chateau was used as a hospital; and during the Second World War, it was used as a route by the Resistance to enter Vichy (Free) France from the German occupied part of the country. Outside, the gardens, Catherine’s Garden on the right and Diane’s Garden on the left of the main entrance, were beautifully manicured and gorgeous to stroll through. This was well worth the visit … interesting, educational, magnificent!

Another 20 miles along the river brought us to Blois where we spent the night.  After walking down to a little sidewalk café for yet another scrumptious French dinner, we’re totally exhausted and sleep came suddenly and easily this evening!!  Another wonderful day in France.