Saturday, December 2, 2017

2017 Rome - Day 3

 Day 3, November 29, 2017 – Rome, Italy

Wouldn’t you know we’d be up very early since our internal clocks haven’t quite adjusted to Roman time yet!  But it gave us a few hours to just relax and figure things out. We have a tour booked in which we enjoyed seeing the following:

Outside the Colosseum
Inside the Colesseum

 The Colosseo … What can I say that people don’t already know about this wonderful ancient icon of Rome?  Except … most of what you’ve seen in the movies is Hollywood’s great imagination!  It was originally dedicated as the Flavian Amphitheater in 80 A.D. for the imperial family and seated about 60,000; but over time the name Colosseo was dubbed by the locals because of the close proximity of a colossal 115-foot tall statute of Emperor Nero.  Even after that statue was removed, the name stuck.  It is a massive four-level amphitheater where the Emperor Senators and other higher ups sat on the first floor … which, by the way, is level with the center stage … and each floor was allotted to different “classes” of people, the poorest  relegated to the least expensive top row nose-bleed standing only.  All of the 80 entrances except the one for the Emperor and other dignitaries, were numbered with tickets purchased to the events corresponding to that entrance.  The main floor was made of wood covered with four inches of sand for the gladiators, animals and other performances there; but the 20-foot deep “basement” was the back stage of the theater where caged animals, condemned criminals, gladiators and props were kept before being brought onstage through trap doors via simple elevators, which provided the element of surprise by popping up onto the floor.


Most interesting to me is that the shape as we know it with half of the top two floors now missing on this circular building is the result of looters and the “recycling” of the metal rods that strengthened the walls. With reinforcement removed, that portion of the wall collapsed in the earth quakes in the 8th and 12th centuries. Also surprising to me was that not every gladiator fight resulted in death.  Actually, most did not.  It was entertainment, and the owners of the gladiators had a lot of time and money invested in these men; so of course, it just wasn’t practical to have them killed off early in their careers!  Plus there would have been 4-5-6 “fights” going on around the floor at one time … too many to fight to the death every time. AND with the animal fights and criminal executions done in the mornings, the people just wanted to be entertained in the evenings, not see more blood! Another myth is that of the “thumbs up, thumbs down” signal of the Emperor signaling life or death.  It never happened … or so historians are telling us. As Christianity was legalized and became the State religion, the Coliseum was converted into a Catholic venue, including the Stations of the Cross situated around the building.  Even today the Pope comes to pray the Stations of the Cross on Good Friday, walking first around the outside of the building with the final Station inside.

Arch of Constantine
Ancient Rome – Ancient Forum … There is just so much that has been learned about Ancient Rome through the diligent archaeological digs over the years.  According to legend, Romulus and Remus “founded” the city, and many artifacts, sculptures and buildings have been found honoring these two.  Grand villas were built on the Palatine and Capitoline hills by the nobles and emperors; and the small valley between, once a swampy burial ground, became the Roman Forum, a grandiose district of basilicas (courts of justice), the Senate House and other government houses, monuments, arches and statues plus the center of commerce.  It was also once the religious center of Rome where the greatest temples were built. Some were later “converted” to Catholic churches as well.  The Forum fell into disrepair after the fall of the Roman Empire until it was finally used as pasture land. In the Middle Ages it was known as the “Cow Field” which was plundered for its stone and marble. Thankfully the area has been systematically excavated since the 18th century, which continues to this day, so we can learn and walk through to experience life in Ancient Rome!

The Ancient Forum
Imagine the black marble said to cover the tomb of Romulus, or the burial site of Julius Ceaser, or the dining room of Nero, or the elaborate podium where Shakespeare had Mark Antony make his famous “friends, Romans, countrymen..” speech. Imagine the temple of the state treasury or the Casa delle Vestele, home of the six Vestal virgins, picked as perfect young ladies between the ages of 6 to 10 years old to serve in the temple for 30 years. They tended to the sacred flame of the temple; but if the flame went out, the one responsible would be flogged; and if one would lose her virginity, she would be burned alive outside the walls and the offending man would be flogged to death in the center of town.  How fascinating was our past!

Ancient ruins in the Roman Forum

Our tour ended with a walk through parts of the city where ancient findings have been unearthed, also noting some of the more famous sculptures, fountains and buildings the Romans enjoy today.  Even the soaking rains today haven’t been able to dampen our enthusiasm experienced in this very beautiful, unique city.

By now we’re getting hungry and because we were unable to connect with the seminarian-led tour of St. Peter’s Basilica, we opted for pizza … seafood pizza.  Imagine our surprise when it was placed on the table .. the photo says it all.  And it was simply delicious!


What was left of the afternoon we spent catching up on sleep … or maybe it is needing sleep due to the exhaustive walking we’ve been doing … either way, it is good to simply relax and enjoy!  It has been a great day in this soggy city today. (Tomorrow promises to be drier!)


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