2017 Rome - Day 4

Day 4, November 30, 2017 – Rome, Italy

No rain today … yeah!  The sun is shining and everyone is thoroughly enjoying it!  This morning we took an Uber ride to …

The Catacombs of Saint Callixtus  … It is an amazing complex of grave sites originating about the middle of the second century which consists of about 90 acres with a network of galleries about 12 miles long in four levels, going down more than 65 feet (20meters) and housing over half a million corpses.  The cemetery is named after Deacon Callixtus who was the administrator appointed by Pope Zephyrinus, after which the catacombs became the official cemetery of the Church of Rome.  Only the top two layers have been excavated with the bottom two layers closed to the public at this time. The area of the Popes is considered the most important portion and was the official burial place of nine popes and other Church dignitaries of the third century, but all bodies on the excavated levels have been relocated.

A notable crypt is that of Saint Cecilia, the popular patron saint of music.  She was martyred in the third century and entombed where a statue now lies (since her relics were transferred to Trastevere in a Basilica dedicated to her).  Archeological findings include small oil lamps that were kept lit not only to see in these many narrow rows in the dark underground but to light the way for loved ones to heaven,, other pottery pieces and many paintings in the walls of plaster of the crypts of the wealthy.  Much like the tradition of today, it is thought that the catacombs were a rather pleasant place to visit with the oil lamps, flowers, symbols and frescos along the crypts. 

These areas were also a place for the early Christians to hide before Christianity was legalized.  But when the barbarians invaded Italy and Rome, they systematically destroyed many of the monuments and sacked the catacombs, so the Popes ordered the removal of the relics of the martyrs and saints to the city churches. So with the catacombs no longer visited by the people, they fell into ruin and were eventually covered over and used for farming fields. It wasn’t until the mid-1800s that systematic exploration of the catacombs began to unearth the treasure that lie beneath those fields. This was certainly a fascinating venture. No pictures were allowed … sorry!

We Ubered back to St. Peter’s Square where we met Deacon Colin for lunch.  Then we ventured over to

Basilica of Saint Paul Outside the Walls

The Basilica of St. Paul Outside the Walls … This church is one of the four major basilicas of Rome and is the second largest after St. Peter’s Basilica.  When Paul the apostle was executed 67 A.D., his followers built a shrine over his grave, then a small church was consecrated there which was demolished in 386 for the construction of a larger more beautiful basilica that was completed in 395 A.D. A fire destroyed much of that basilica in 1823, but the church was rebuilt with funds from countries around the world in recognition of St. Paul’s evangelization to the world.

The grounds, the front façade and the interior of the church are simply beautiful.  One hundred  fifty

The top facade of Saint Paul Outside the Walls

columns surround the court yard and front of the church. The triangular façade on the top is decorated by mosaics depicting various Biblical scenes, and huge statues of Saints Peter and Paul greet you as you enter one of the massive front doors.  Both the main doors and the Holy Door beautifully depict portions of salvation history.  The very large interior consists of enormous marble columns and beautiful mosaics, as well as pictures of each of the 265 Popes surrounding the nave. Looking down the main area between the marble columns, you see a massive, very ornate and beautiful sarcophagus over the crypt of Saint Paul … a fitting honor to him. It has been authenticated that Saint Paul is indeed still buried in this spot … very moving! Also at this point, there are three other quite large alter areas … right, left, and behind … where Masses are normally said.  Plus there are several more rooms of chapels behind all that!  This definitely was worth the visit!      

The main section inside Saint Paul Outside the Wall
Note the two rows of columns on either side.
The circles above the columns are the pictures of the Popes.

Praying at the tomb of Saint Paul the Apostle

Deacon Colin, knowing his way around the City .. good thing too because we had no idea of where we were! … then showed us several other beautiful sites.  We had seen the Spanish Steps and Trevi Fountain many years ago, but it was definitely fun to visit them again.  The streets and store fronts are now decorated for the Christmas season, so walking them during this lovely evening before the Christmas crowds arrive was simply beautiful.    

The beautiful alter of
Saint Andrew of Fratte

Basilica S’Andrea Delle Fratte (Dedicated to St. Andrew the Apostle) …  This is a  beautiful little church where Deacon Colin celebrated his first Mass as a Deacon this fall with his family.  It is designed in the shape of a cross, and the nave is barrel-vaulted with chapels on each side dedicated to Saint John the Baptist, Saint Michael the Archangel, Saint Francis de Sales, Chapel of the Minim Blesseds (dedicated to two Minim friars),  St. Francis da Paola, St. Anne, St. Joseph, the Miraculous Madonna, the Crucifixion and the Chapel of Our Lady. The fresco on the dome above the alter proclaims the Assumption of Our Lady and behind is the depiction of the crucifixion, entombment and death of Saint Andrew.  Most notable, however, is the small holy relic of pieces of wood said to be from the crosses of Saints Andrew and Peter. As with all the other churches we’ve seen, this was beautiful, and even more meaningful because of Deacon’s connection!

Relic of wood from the crosses
of Saints Andrew and Peter

So the day is getting late and from here we take the bus back (well, except for the last half of a mile we walk every day!) and call it a day since we have to be up quite early tomorrow for another tour.  Once again we are Blessed by Deacon Colin spending time with us and for the chance to lean more of our faith history.